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Saturday:
Dave almost rented
a Lincoln Towncar instead of the minivan so that we would have
a trunk to hide our stuff from the nosy, curious, destructive
bears. We had way too much stuff. Driving into Yosemite at peak
water flow was a real treat. The rapids, waterfalls, and lush
vegetation were awe-inspiring and ubiquitous. It was a different
park than the bone dry place I visited in September.
Sunday:
Wally was chomping
at the bit. We decided to get up and climb a couple of pitches
before everybody else awoke and then come back for breakfast.
Since my first climbing experience in Yosemite was all in 'Big
Wall Aid Mode' I didn't realize just how perfect free climbing
there can be. I led a 5-star 150' granite splitter called Bishop's
Terrace.
We went back for
breakfast with the rest of the crew: My cousin, Gary, his girlfriend,
Carolyn, Tori, her friend Michelle, Erin, and her friend Kim.
9 at a campsite with a limit of 6. Oh, well.
We cragged at Manure
Pile Buttress that day.
Monday:
Up at 4:20. Our
plan was to climb the East
Buttress of El Cap, a 9-pitch, 1200' route on the right
edge of the Captain. We motored up the approach and made good
time to the 6th pitch. Horsetail falls was running strong about
800' to the west, but the wind shifted and pushed the water
back up and eastward - soon we were climbing in a waterfall.
Wally led through a 5.8 roof with a fire hose of spray running
down his arms in hopes that if we turned the corner of the buttress
it would be dry on the other side. No dice. After Tori and I
got above that roof I was hypothermic and shaking uncontrollably.
We left a couple of nuts and a sling and bailed. At the sunny
ledge below the water we had to strip off some wet clothing
to get warm again. Wally went the full monty for quick results.
Tuesday:
Another rest/cragging
day. Wally and I got up early and climbed at Pat
and Jack Pinnacle before breakfast. Later we went to Reed's
Pinnacle. Gary wanted to give climbing a try, so we picked
out a 5.7 that unfortunately required some shoulder-aggravating
moves. Next time I'll find a face climb for you, Gary. The weather
turned hot and I sat out part of the day while Wally, Dave,
and Erin climbed Lunatic
Fringe, a stellar .10c. I kinda' regret not jumping on that
now.
Wednesday:
Serenity
Crack to Sons of Yesterday - This was one of our main objectives
for the trip, and one of the best 5.10 routes in the world.
Everything about the day was perfect. I almost pulled the crux
move, but misjudged a key foothold (smear). Climbing ~900' up
a relatively smooth granite face by way of a crack isn't intuitive
for the non-climber. Many climbs are like complicated ladders
where the skill is obvious and easy to appreciate. Crack climbing
technique involves twisting and stacking your fingers in strange
ways so that when you succeed, you feel like you're doing something
entirely different than climbing a ladder. It's like the difference
between riding a bicycle and riding a unicycle, or walking on
stilts. You feel proud of yourself when you make it work, almost
like juggling (or riding a unicycle on stilts). Tori watched
us climb the first pitch, but had to leave the Valley later
that morning to get back to work. Sorry you missed out, Tori.
Thursday:
Wally and I drove
up to Tuolumne
Meadows, the alpine sister of Yosemite Valley. I wanted
a low-voltage climb, so we picked a 4-star 5.7 on Stately Pleasure
Dome called West
Country. If you're familiar with Boulder, it was like climbing
a Flatiron - but with nice granite in a perfect alpine setting.
I enjoyed the final hand crack so much I ran out the rope for
50' or so because I was having too much fun to stop for gear.
Friday:
The other big objective
for the week was Lost
Arrow Spire Tip. This spectacular finger of rock couldn't
be in a more dramatic location: next to the highest waterfall
in North America (2,425' according to Wikipedia). We hiked to
the top of the falls and rappelled down to a notch where it
meets the headwall. Climbing two pitches of aid wasn't that
difficult, and we stayed on the summit for nearly two hours.
Two slacklines had been set up spanning the 80' and 130' distance
between the tip and the walls. It takes a lot of self discipline
to look straight ahead while walking over a 2000' void on a
stretchy inch-wide band of nylon. I tried three or four times,
but I couldn't help but look down (which takes away all frame
of reference for your inner ear/visual coordination.) High-lining
isn't for me, I guess. The guy with the curly red hair (known
as Mr. Slackline) has free-soloed this line (no backup plan
in case of a fall except possibly catching the line with your
hands.) Crazy*.
*[I'm
sure all you non-climbers reading this are laughing at the relativity
of my assessment. Pot to Kettle: 'You're black' :0)]
Saturday:
We wandered around
looking at future climbs, wishing that the drive back to Sacramento
were shorter so we could get a few more pitches in.
many more photos here:
Wally's
camera
Erin's
camera
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